
This is how I feel right now realizing that in 28 days I will be back in America. My exchange rocketed by much faster than I thought it would. Surprise surprise. I was talking with Rozina and Shamsu about my first day here and it could not help but ask "How was that all the way back in August?" I think everyone (my fellow exchangers I mean) will experience that once their trip comes close to an end.
Toh... I returned from my North India tour and Himalaya trekking adventure on March 17th. I was gone for close to five weeks and had a blast. Like last time I am going to do a day by day description so here we go!
Feb 12- We got on the train and were on it for 25 hours. Not worth writing about. Not worth remembering.
Feb 13- We arrived in Kolkutta, West Bengal and we went to a suburb of Kolkutta, I guess you can call it a suburb, called Hawara. That day was spent lazily driving around just seeing the city but not actually getting out of the bus. It was kind of a waste but the train arrived late so we had to push everything to see in Kolkutta for the next day. Milan, Yann and I did explore the famous date market on our own though. To put it plainly, unless you want to buy dates, there really is not a whole lot else there. There were a few fruit stands but that was it for the market we walked though. It was pretty cool to see all of the guys holding auctions for mass amounts of dates.
Feb 14- We started our day with a visit to a Jain temple. It was quite beautiful inside, the walls were covered with mirrors and colored glass which radiated in the sunlight that was pouring through the door. Too bad we were not allowed to take photos. The next visit was to Mother Teresa's "Missionaries of Charity" nunnery. We saw the room in which she lived, hundreds of photos of her throughout her lifetime and we got little pendents with her face on them for visiting. The next thing we saw was the Kali temple. Aside from trying to get cheated out of 100 rupees by "the man in charge" we saw goat sacrifices. It was... I dunno, there is no good way to say how you feel after you see a living goat hacked apart. After that we went to the Victorian Park but before we were allowed in we had to pass a group of conservative Muslims protesting Valentines Day. Now sure I agree that it is over the top and an excuse for a holiday but these guys were connecting Valentines Day with many other things that really do not have a connection, like still born children. Yes, that was a sign I saw... Once we got past that little fiasco we were in this lovely park for a while. Indian couples were being cutesy all around us which was a little disheartening because most of what was going on reminded me of middle school/high school puppy love games, but these lovers were mostly in their mid twenties. As we normally do, our group attracted a lot of attention and soon we had a line of people taking photos with us. /shrugs/ I never will understand what is so interesting about us.
Feb 15- The night before we hopped on a train that would take us to New Jalpaigudi, which was a filthy little city with swarms of beggars. Luckily we only stayed there for fifteen minutes before we loaded up into Tata Sumos (which are Landrover-like SUVs) and we drove 4 hours to Darjeeling. Before we entered the city limits we were stopped by a very long protest for "Gorkhaland." The people of Darjeeling and the surrounding areas (up to Sikkim) feel that they are not part of India. Pretty much forced into the country when the British organized their colonial holdings, the Gorkhaland supporters have been trying to be free of India. Their biggest protest again India is simply that they are from a completely different culture and they feel threatened by the India government in regards to resources. It was pretty cool to see and the more time I spent in the area (Darjeeling and Sikkim) the more I agreed with them. It is hard to accurately describe but it feels completely different from India. All of us students felt like we were in another country, and when we entered Sikkim, it was pretty much like we did enter another country but more on that later. We visited the Darjeeling Zoo and mountaineering museum. After that we went to our hotel, a Tibetan themed one. Might I add that was FREEZING cold, showering was painful. Our next stop was to a Tibetan Refugee School and Hostel. We were supposed to go see something in there but we ended up playing basketball with the Tibetan kids. Most of the time I was benched and taking photos but I tossed a ball around with a little kid for a while as well. After that heartwarming experience we went back to town. In the evening we went shopping. Milan and I got separated from the group and ended up finding "No Losar!" posters on one wall. Since both of us had no idea what Losar was we asked around and finally found the one putting them up. He was from the Tibetan Youth Congress, a similar body to Students for a Free Tibet, and told me that in honor of all those who have died trying to free their country over the last 50 years they are not celebrating Losar, the Tibetan new year. We talked about SFT and the TYC for a little bit, he wished me well in my fight against Chinese occupation and left.
Feb 16- We were woken up quite early to go see a sunrise. Now an exchange student joke because all the times we were woken up early to watch the sunrise it was either cloudy or a pretty lame sunrise. This time was no different and the sun barely penetrated the thick fog. Ah well. Our next stop was at the Ghoom Monastery which was so amazing. Like a little slice of Tibet, young reincarnated lamas started their morning prayers and chants around us while I and a girl named Emily, whose interest in Buddhism was growing rapidly, offered our prayers to Lord Buddha and His Holiness the Dalai Lama. Actually, Darjeeling and Gangtok both are Buddhist dominated areas so I felt right at home within all of that spirituality. After our visit to the first monastery, we visited the second Ghoom complex which was much larger. There we had missed the prayers but were free to roam. I stumbled across an old man praying in a private room. Though he knew no english, he saw my prayer beads and invited me in. He had me spin the large prayer wheel 108 times. As I did that, I would peek at him from time to time in between my recitation of "Nam an dam bu" and he had this huge smile on his old face. When I finished we bowed to each other, he laughed then we parted ways. Nothing like that had ever happened to me before and I know it will be a fond memory for the rest of my life. After that monastery we left Darjeeling for Gangtok, the largest city in Sikkim. The eight our drive winded us through mountains and valleys with stunning views. At one point we had to stop to get permission to go into the Autonomous state of Sikkim which was kind of cool. The whole state was an anomaly in the North East and actually in India. It was Nepali social construction but it felt like a little European state. It was run really well and most of the issues that plagued the states around it: crime, high birth and mortality rates, starvation, illiteracy, etc. were completely missing from the whole of Sikkim. That night we arrived and just hung out in the hotel wanting to rest. That night we discovered a great restaurant called Roll House. For 30 Rs. (roughly $.60) you could get a eight inch rolled willed with paneer corn peanuts milchee a thick spicy gravy and a few other things. We loved that place so much we went every day while in Gangtok. That evening, Milan Yann Rowland and I explored the "green street" of Gangtok. It was a cobblestone street was very Eurpoean looking with park benches fountains rustic lampposts and every store was painted green. At the time we were out, not much was open but it was something so different than India. It's hard to explain really.
Feb 17- The next day we started with an excursion to Yangu lake, a holy lake up 11000 feet. We got to walk around the lake, three of us on foot (Rowland Yann and I) and the rest of the students on yaks. During our hour circumnavigation of the lake, I found one of the most hilarious signs I have seen in my life. It read "This lake is sacred, do not urinate in the vicinity of the lake. It was chilly but very serene up there. With the boarder of China only 20 KM away, the area was heavily patrolled by both military personnel and goods carries but on the lakeside, you hardly noticed they were there. After the lake we visited a temple for Ganesh. It was nothing special, just a temple on a hill really but what was funny about it was that it seemed like the Buddhists were trying to reclaim the temple. Years ago the Hindu minority in the area demanded a temple be placed on top of the hill overlooking Gangtok as they were in a Hindu nation. So the temple was there yes, but it was surrounded by thousands of prayer flags. After that we went to an orchid house and an Tibetan Buddhist library. That night again we devoured rolls at the Roll House.
Feb 18- We all painfully left The Northeastern Hillstations hilariously dreading the return to "normal India." The whole day was spent traveling so nothing fun to report.
Feb 19- We arrived in Bihar, the most backward state in India. The first thing we saw was Nalanda and Rajgir which are two old temples and universities built in the 12th century. It was pretty cool to see but the whole time we had a group of very crude Biharis following us around so that ruined the area for us. Being called the equivalent of "White sluts" constantly would put a damper on anyone. That afternoon we visited a zen Buddhist temple in Gaya (the place where the Buddha gained enlightenment) Placed on top of a mountain we hair a chairlift to the top. At the large stupa Emily and I again offered prayers and incense then went inside a smaller structure to see the Zen ceremony going on. When we entered anh followed what the monks told us to do, putting huge smiles on their faces.
Feb 20- in a surprise visit, we visited the Bodhi tree where it is said Buddha gained enlightenment under. Obviously a huge pilgrimage spot, Buddhists of all colors, creeds, and sects were present offering prostrations and prayers to the Buddha. WE were only allotted 40 minutes to explore the area, but seeing as we were at the starting point of a faith we spent more time. Our guides were very unhappy with us over this which was kind of odd. I mean it's like saying "Here is the Vatican, the central hub of Catholicism, you have 2 hours to see the city..." Mai~ lum nahi~ (I don't know) it's a little weird sometimes, I suppose. The rest of the day was spent going to Varanasi, one of the largest pilgrimage sites for Hindus in all of India.
Feb 21- We were up at 5 to get on the Ganges for a boat ride up and down the areas of Varanasi where one is to take holy dips. It was quite nice aside from the increasingly foul smell that will be explained later. After the sun rose we saw a lot of different things going on along the river banks. Yoga for the Hindu monks with random Japanese and white people tagging a lot, men covering themselves in ash offering prayers to the Ganga and Shiva; we even saw, up close might I add, a cremation of woman. We left the river side and went to the Deer Park, the place where Lord Buddha gave his first sermon. The temple was small and quaint but around the premises was a portion of his first sermon in all of the Buddhist counties languages. It was neat to see all of the different languages. We then borded another train and went off to Agra. While riding on the train I looked over the shoulder of a man reading the newspaper. As I read I came across an article that said the Ganges in Varanasi has 10,000 time the amount of fecal matter in the water than there should be to make it safe. My stomach lurched because I knew that I had swallowed some of the water when our boat man accidentally splashed us. I am still here so obviously it didn't kill me.
Feb 22- Agra. Well Agra itself is boring and a terribly ugly city, but the Taj Mahal and Fathapur Sikari (Emperor Akbar's ruling fort) are worth the journey. From afar, the Taj looks dirty, but up close it is obvious why they call consider a Wonder of the World. There is not a whole lot else I can really say about it, the Taj is the Taj. Fathapur Sikari was nice, but we were still captivated by the wonder of the Taj to truly appreciate it. That was all we saw of Agra.
Feb 23- We left Agra and headed to Jaipur we arrived in the middle of the afternoon so we only were able to do two things visit a Birla temple and get dinner at some awesome mock Rajastani village. The Birla temple was nice, though monkey infested. Did I mention I hate monkeys now? Little jerks steal from you, bite, give you diseases.... anyways. The temple was alright but when we left the temple head demanded money from all of us for taking photos. Though none of us took any photos he demanded the money regardless. We knew that he was only charging us because we were foreigners so we angrily paid him then quickly ran through parts of the temple again taking 30 Rupees worth of photos. The dinner was very tasty and the setting was original no doubt. All over the mock village were little shows and gimmicks about traditional life. Well worth the 250 Rs. entry fee.
Feb 24- We explored what Jaipur had to offer, we saw a few museums but the high light was the Golden Fort. It was a labyrinth of old passages hundreds of staircases and rooms and was even the set for a new Bollywood movie, Veer. Malik and I snuck around the guards trying to get a photo, but all we got were the extras. /laughs/ Okay so funny story, this girl named Ashley who is a little clumsy let's just say, though she would try to jump out and scare us. Well when she jumped out she actually jumped down a flight of stairs. It was so dark in that area that after she fell a few feet, we saw nothing of her at all. Yann and I ran over to the staircase and shined a light down it. The darkness engulfed our light so I used my handy dandy camera and took a picture. The flash revealed to us that Ashley was only about three feet away from us. She had fallen only seven or eight feet and was perfectly fine. Needless to say, she terrified us. We wish we could have explored the fort more but our time was limited so we moved on. That night there were two groups, the shoppers and the indifferents. The shoppers unhappily argued with our tour guides trying to get them to find "the perfect shopping area." the rest of us just went with it tired of the tensions that were raised to a breaking point. I, and a small group of others, found food and a shop right next door where we did a little shopping and moved our way back to the bus. Along the way, Rowland stopped to get a shave. I talked to the shop owner in Hindi about his son and how we were from Nagpur while Rowland got his trim. When the time comes to pay Rowland was told to pay 50 Rs. Usually it costs 15, so obviously both of us protested. The man was charging us more because we were foreign. Rowland gave the man his 50 Rs. and stormed out of the shop. Everyone had been in a terrible mood all day and we all just needed time to unwind.
Feb 25- Jaisalmer. This was the place where we had our night in the desert. We spent a large portion of the day on the train and getting to our first stop. There we put all of our luggage in a hotel, packed a night bag and hit our second stop which was where we started our camel rides. Let me tell you, camels do not look big, but they are HUGE. Being up there is fairly imposing, especially when you have a rabid camel making weird noises with what looks like his lung hanging out of his mouth riding closely behind you. I had a really nice camel but the camel uh... driver? was asking me for tips before I even got on. We traveled out to the dunes where most of the men in the group did sand sumo which was rather entertaining. That night we stayed in tents out under the wide open sky. It was pretty fun. I slept well.
Feb 26- The next morning some of us got up at 5:30 to see the sun rising over the dunes. My timing was perfect so I was only out of the camp for about five minutes. When I returned I found that my cell phone had gone missing. I ripped the tent apart and offered 500, then 1000 rupees to any of the guides who found my phone but no one found anything. When I questioned a boy about it, he looked at me in terror than ran off. It was at that moment that I knew he had it, and at the same time, I knew I was not going to be able to get it back. So even with all the care I had taken I still lost my phone. Drat. We saw a few temples, names of which elude me at this time then we visited the Jaisalmer fort which was like a city inside the city. Because people still lived and worked there it was more of a "do what you want" time than structured tourism so Rowland and I found something to eat and an internet cafe. We aimlessly wandered throughout the city until we had to go catch a train.
Feb 27- We ended up in Jodhpur the next day, known for the all blue bramin houses it is appropriately named the Blue City. We had a guide for the city that looked like he fell out of New Orleans, heck he even played the trumpet. This day we saw the Maharajah's palace. It as 70% a hotel, 25% living quarters and 5% tourist area, so we saw 4 rooms of the entire palace. Next was the Maharangar Fort which we also aimlessly wandered around for hours until after dinner. We left for Firozpur that evening.
Feb 28- From Firozpur we drove to Amritsar where is famous Sikh Golden Temple was. It is a huge complex with an enormous kitchen that feeds everyone who comes through the gates for free. The Sikhs believe the best way to show respect to someone is to share a meal with them. As much ever temple has a kitchen. In the temple we had to keep our heads covered so I wore my kuffiyah laughably as a turban. After the Golden temple we drove to the Vaga Boarder which is the end of India and the entrance to Pakistan. AS we got closer we noticed that around the gate was stadium seating. As the time got closer for the lowering of the flag, masses of people filled the Pakistan and Indian stands. Women danced in the street which somehow was part of the competition between Pakistan and India. As soon as everyone was pushed back into the stands the nationalism started. A man in a fiery pink shirt started changing pro India slogans and putting the Pakistani crowd down. a Pakistani man in a green shirt was going the same thing on the other side of the border. As the shouting got fiercer and fiercer the Germans and I talked about how this felt like some Nazi like nationalism rally. People all around us were saying "Jai Hind Down Pak!" Jai hind is the nation woohoo for India I guess you can put it like that. I was glad to leave. The following photo is pretty much how I feel. Two different nations made of the same people. Their paths cross every day yet they cannot be together.

March 1- After a terrible night journey in a bus, we arrived in Dharmsala. I was totally psyched to be there, not knowing that the Dalai Lama was out of tour. We only had a few hours in the city so we spent as much time as possible looking for him around the areas of his residence, his government in exile and the monastery His Holiness had set up. By we I mean a small group of us who wanted to see and or meet him. There was a second group that shopped mostly. Well turns out we missed him by 8 hours which was sad but hey, gives me incentive to come back and try again right? We left Dharmsala defeated but in high spirits. We headed to Manali which took all day.
March 2- Manali, we were warned, was a hippy heaven. The first day we saw no "dangerous hippy peoples" (as our guide called them) We were up in the snow, which was a little lame because the area was ran by people who controlled all the activities. Sure you could go skiing, but it was designed for people who had never seen snow so for 300 Rs. you could go skiing on a small track of snow. We were hoping for more, but the relaxation in the mountain air was nice. The setting was amazing. That night we threw a party for Yann who was leaving us the next day. Instead of visiting Delhi he was going to visit his dad in South India.
March 3- Our last day in Manali, we visited some temple with hot springs where we had our first encounter with hippies. Rowland and I were sitting at a restaurant discussing the amazingness of the grilled cheese and tomato sandwiches we had ordered when a man pulls out a bong and lights up right next to us. a little surprised we laughed and kept an eye on them just to see what they would do. Well not much more than the bong was lit, but the conversation they had took us through many years of highs and trips with different drugs, different places and many many girls. Seriously entertained by all of this, we ordered tea just to listen to the guys talk. It was a great use of 45 Rs. in my opinion. /laughs/ We left Manali for Delhi that evening.
March 4- we had a busy day of seeing everything Delhi had to offer, the Red Fort, the India Gate, Qutub Minar, the Lotus Temple and the Swami Narayan Temple. To be honest, the Delhi sigh seeing seemed bland compared to everything else we had seen, though the Lotus temple was something else. Shaped like a lotus, it was a Baha'i temple where anyone of any faith could worship. There was not a whole lot to it, but it was tranquil.

Delhi ended with shopping for me. I was with Ceres and Clemence, two french speaking girls from Belgium and France respectively. I had a fun time shopping with them because they were able to help me pick out outfits for my female friends and family I was buying for. a group of nine of us ate together at a restaurant and recollected our favorite parts of the trips. Hands down we all selected Darjeeling and Gangtok as our favorite places.
March 5- This is where my North tour ended and my Himalaya tour began. What follows is a rough outline of what we did as a lot of the trip ran together. I am constructing my story from photos.
Oh, my second favorite sign I found on the tour also. I do not even know what to think about that...

March 7th we arrived at the area where we would be hiking. We unloaded all of our stuff in the hostel and got to work on learning the ropes. We learned to pitch tents, properly pack our bags, turn our supplies into warmer layers and learned a little about the surrounding area. That evening we went on a hike to get used to the weird of our packs and get used to the lower oxygen, at that point we were at 7500 feet.
March 8-13 We spent the 8th and 9th days hiking to our base camp at 9500 feet and acclimatizing to higher altitudes by a series of strenuous games. the 10th through the 12th we spent pushing ourselves a little higher, a maximum of 14500 feet on the 12th which was the top of the mountain. One night during the experience a tree fell on a tent of girls, injuring two of them so we lost a day of trekking but they were real troopers and did their best to climb to the top with us. Trekking is something else. Really. I mean we were so far away from anyone else it was just us and nature. No lights, no internet, no cars, hell, no plumbing. The boys used a pick axe, rightfully dubbed "The Shitdigger" when we needed to relieve ourselves. Actually we had a few laughs out of our digging device. The girls "area" was beyond our tent and the boys "area" was beyond theirs. Not logical, but no big deal. So when the girls would use their area, they took our digger because they had to cross our tent. not a major problem until it's 3:42 A.M. and one of the males yells "WHERE IS THE SHITDIGGER?! IT'S FREEZING OUT HERE AND I NEED IT NOW!" Waking all of us up and causing a wave of panic over our lost digging device. Ha. I laughed writing that.
On the 13th we returned to our camp at 7500 feet and played Holi. It is the festival of color where we throw colored powder and water at everyone. This is how i looked after, and i was hit relatively light.

March 14 we drove down to rashikesh and on the 15th we went rafting down the Ganges. What was supposed to be a rapid filled adventure was not as exciting as we had hoped. But it was fun none the less. We all took a bath in the river, and I even too a big gulp of the clean water. It came right from the glaciers so it was the cleanest and safest part to drink from. On our raft ride down, we passed a yoga center with a bunch of white people on the beech. A man dressed in religious clothing called to us from the beach "HARE RAM!" and we answered "HARE RAM!" back. Well we ended up doing the whole Hare Ram Hare Krishna prayer with him yelling back and forth. We decided he had a pretty good life being able to meditate on the sandy beaches of the clean Ganges and bless people as they floated by. Good for him. After that we started our journey home.
A whole lot more happened during the trekking, much more than I can write. It was a deeply spiritual journey for me so I do not really know how to place my words correctly.
I am now living out my last 4 weeks here in Nagpur quietly. Summer has started so the heat is picking up, though we are having abnormally cool temperatures here now. I am not really planning what will happen over the next month so well see what I end up doing.
--Adam